An Africa of Contrasts

Africa rarely ceases to amaze, for better or for worse.  In July 2015, along with my partner in crime Lars – Ulrik Nielsen, I visited Tanzania and Kenya for one month to shoot a documentary film in the former and visit friends and family in the latter. I was last on the continent 5 years ago – a singular visit to the place that I grew up on in one decade.

Those who have lived in or visited Africa will contend that it’s a place of contrasts and constant change. Like the Sahara sounds of the North, the scenery, people, sites and sounds of this continent are constantly shifting; an eternal ballad with the fierce winds of time that carry with them all manner of emotions-hope, despair, warmth and wisdom.

This is my feeble attempt to capture some of what I experienced and chart my path through the many miles of road that I covered. It is an even more feeble ploy to attract the attention of the privileged world to some of the problems of the less-endowed and more importantly, on what can be done, however minimal, to help out with such issues. Crucially, in the age of selfies and selflessness in which we live – an epoch that my generation can stake our claim on as that in which social disparity is at its highest, this article is a call to arms that I hope, illustrates that small actions from those in positions of privilege can have major lasting impacts on the lives of others who do not have access to human rights.

If you have the patience to read through this article, you will note that there are many links (highlighted in green), which can be explored through a single mouse click. These links open in a new window.

DSC_0090

Khalifa and I sample fruits that these amicable Maasai children shared with us on the hilltop overlooking Mlembule village, Northern Tanzania. We sat here for hours, able to communicate solely through laughter and gestures.

The story of my travels began earlier this year with a call from a close friend who approached me with the idea of starting a Non – Governmental Organisation that could lend a helping hand to communities in need in Tanzania. I jumped on board and helped form Jengo– an organisation whose aim is that of helping improve the lives of underpriviledged communities in the north of this beautiful East African country.

Our vision of going to Tanzania to gain a better overview of some of the problems that we wish to ameliorate via Jengo became a reality shortly after the attainment of the Danish Ministry of Foreign Affairs (Verdenslegat) grant. This generous scheme covers all travel expenses and production costs associated with the shooting of a short 8-minute documentary that sheds light on specific problems in third-world countries. Considering the nature of our deadline-day application, we met the news of our grant accreditation with amusement and surprise. Days after the reality of what we’d achieved sunk in, we began the process of planning the logistics of a two-week trip to the north of Tanzania that would involve not merely shooting footage for our proposed film, but also entail work for our NGO, Jengo, independently of our movie work.

Many reams of red tape later, we found ourselves on our way to Tanzania, to sow the first seeds of hope for various communities in the Northern part of the country. The mission?

  1. Commence the construction of a school in the outskirts of the village of Mlembule, near Mombo, that will serve as a hub for the education of young Maasai girls in coming years and help protect Albinos confronted by persecution based on unfortunate prejudices within their communities.
  2. Shoot an 8-minute documentary on women’s rights in the Maasai culture, centred on the lives of two couples in two different Maasai villages.
  3. Gather information concerning the nature and scope of various problems faced by communities of interest to Jengo.

This is my animated diary of our two weeks on the road:

Skærmbillede 2015-08-30 kl. 19.12.13

The costs of building a school for the children of Mlembule. We have raised funds for the first 2500 USD, with which a foundation was constructed whilst we were on our voyage in Tanzania. More is needed though – find out more about how you can contribute.

4th – 6th July 2015: From Paul McCartney to Amsterdam and Dar Es Salaam

10989224_10153430630539450_6042463920044955574_n

All set for the trip: Lars Ulrik Nielsen and I shortly before take-off from Kastrup airport on the hottest day of the year in Denmark. 

The hottest day of the year in Denmark. I began it amidst a furore of fireworks and music, flanked by thousands of revellers at Roskilde Festival. The Orange stage was awash with bright red, purple and yellow flames from the fireworks show that cut the sky like blades through butter as Paul McCartney rolled back the years. My train ride home took an eternity and my sleep was no different to that of a sedated beast.

Hours later and I found myself bound on a KLM flight that stopped in Amsterdam and later Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania’s largest city and the most populous Swahili speaking city in the world. Home to between 4 and 5 million people, up to 70 per cent of Dar’s population live in slum areas with poor access to basic amenities such as water and electricity. The city greets you with a warm, sweltering rush of air that smells of salt and seaweed. It is uncomfortably humid at best.

After an hour of filling out Visa forms (the procedure is ridiculously slow), Lars Ulrik and I hitched a taxi bound for the city centre. As with many airports, it is wise to take official taxis and even in this case, do not accept the start price, as you will probably be overcharged.  Instead, verse yourself with the nudge and grudge of negotiation-a skill that you will need in many situations in Africa.

We commenced our stay by checking in at the Safari Inn . Twin beds with air conditioning (a welcome help against a backdrop of sweltering humidity) will set you back a cool 10 – 20 USD per night. The staff are friendly and the property is secure: a popular pay-for-what-you-get location amongst tourists and the ideal stopover for a night.

7th July Dar es Salaam to Mombo at The Crack of Dawn

IMG_3852

Arrival in Mlembule: The arrival of guests from afar for many an African village is an elaborate affair that tends to involve quite a few people.

We began our day brutally early as Jengo vice chairman Tambwe Tumbwa and his brother Hamisi drove us to our morning bus at 4 am.  The air was heavy with the scent of sea salt and the back of my neck felt warm and wet.  Two vital Airtel sim cards with pre-loaded credits are handed to us; -absolute necessities on any trip as roaming costs are nothing short of daylight robbery. Getting cash proved to be a challenge as we visited one empty ATM before getting lucky at a second.

Being that It was a public holiday and the bus terminal was crammed with a mix of commuters, porters of stock and baggage, adroit touts and eager ticket vendors. Coming here on one’s own, without the help of a local friend, is unadvisable.

We streaked through the darkness amidst a flurry of shouting and early morning hustle and bustle. The bags on our backs were heavy and uncomfortable – crammed with donations for our work here from partners such as Derma and GAME Denmark. More than once, we came close to falling, as we trudged and stumbled through the mud left by the night’s drizzle. Carts of stock driven by irritable men hissed and nudged us out of the way – we were cumbersome boulders in a sea of early morning hustle.  I followed the bulky mass of baggage and man in front of me as best I could until we finally reached our destnination, the Dar Express bound for Arusha.   A cut above other bus options, this company will take you safely from A to B and keep you entertained (or perpetually bothered, depending on your outlook) with dramatic local soap operas and music videos at full volume for the entire duration of your journey. You will also get a small packet of glucose biscuits and a soda but don’t expect extra legroom.

Daylight found us aboard our bus as we snaked through a sea of combustion engines prompted by commuters heading out of the city for the Eid celebrations. As a high percentage of Tanzanians are Muslim, this holiday is fairly significant – many establishments are closed and the drone of Mosque prayers shoots through the evening air at many a township over the course of the holidays. The scenery shifts from messy urban sprawl to palm-tree strewn suburbia and quaint rice paddies that resemble those in Asia as we rise up into the hills and up to the north. The air here is clear and calming, a stark contrast to the congestion and heat of Dar Es Salaam.

We reached Mombo in the afternoon and were confronted by a horde of overly eager bus touts and idlers in search of a quick buck, some of whom attempted to carry our rucksacks despite overt No’s from our part.  My Swahili came in handy as I made it clear that we were not interested in whatever services they had to offer. After a few more confrontations with the inhabitants of this unpleasant outpost, one of whom was worryingly sloshed, our local partner, Khalifa from the Friends of Usambara association arrived to our rescue. We had a local buffet lunch at the well-priced Liverpool hotel on the highway heading out of Mombo, before heading to the first Maasai village on our itinerary, Mlembule.

Our arrival in Mlembule was greeted by a mix of stares and laughs from pretty much every adult and child in the village at that particular time. There is rarely a low-key arrival in Africa when guests from abroad are in town.  Some may be put-off or taken aback by the experience but for many from the Western world, arriving in a small African town will probably one of the most welcoming experiences they endure in their lifetime. Having stowed our luggage in our Manyattas (huts), we toured the village and its environs – guided all the while by Chief Daudi – a wise old man who I gained respect for over the course of our stay.

Night fell and the sounds of the Savannah rang out cacophonously. I realised how much I  had missed these sounds the concerto of crickets and other insects and occasionally, the chilling roar of some wild and unidentifiable beast. Jet-lagged, worn and weary from days of traveling, I shut my eyes in the cool, pacifying confines of my Manyatta (hut).

KnONtfwm-NENTuBm-j0KVjJuWRaBhMGuYqLnzwbyMLc

Chief Daudi from Mlembule village – an excellent host and gentleman who is at home clad in traditional Maasai attire (as shown here) or in conventional Western clothing that he frequently dons during his diplomatic visits to communities outside of his village.

7th – 8th July: The Wedding in Mlembule

IMG_3855The groom to-be, Johanna, on the left of the picture, a few hours before his wedding day.

The first of two wedding appearances on our trip. As with many other weddings around the world, there is a lingering undertone of anticipation and bit of unplanned comedy. Maasai weddings are far simpler than many Western ones can be and involve far less logistics, which makes them less stressful to be a part of. One of the highlights of this particular wedding was the birth of a goat kid amidst the sea of cattle in the village boma (enclosure) just before the ceremony began. Eager to film the spectacle, I approached the scene and began to record, at which point one of the chief’s brothers pitched up and performed what I can only describe as a very impressive caesarean section. Once done, he proceeded to very calmly ask me if I had a buck or two for his efforts, which I responded that I did not. His hustling continued for the remainder of our stay, despite a telling-off from his brother – it all got rather amusing an the end of it all.

The rest of the wedding went along smoothly and was over and done in the matter of a few hours. Part of this ceremony involved a rather intimate squeeze into one of the huts, where a ritualistic exchange of blessings from parents took place, briefly and without undue fuss.

One of the challenges that faces Maasai communities particularly in Tanzania is that of teenage marriage, whereby young girls are often wedded off to men who are much older than themselves in return for accumulations of wealth in the form of cattle. The fact that polygamy is in many areas not just accepted, but a sign of virility and status exacerbate this. For the sceptics reading this, the reason for the existence of widespread polygamy in many African communities is logical if we talk in terms of cultural relativism. In previous times, chiefs marrying the women of other tribes and creating children with them was one of the most effective ways of preventing conflicts and wars amongst different tribes and clans. Though this argument is not as relevant today as it has been, it goes some way towards explaining the historical roots of African polygamy. There are, it goes without saying, numerous other socio-political factors that can account for the prevalence of this practice.

This particular wedding did not raise any eyebrows per se, though we did, as part of our work with our NGO, interview a 15-year-old girl, Nayaki, who has been married for two years to a husband with whom she has a child. Part of the reason for the persistence of such problems lies in the lack of educational opportunities within numerous Maasai communities and though the practice is in decline, there is much work to be done, as Chief Daudi admitted to us in an interview we had with him later in the day. For him, education is the way out of many of the socioeconomic problems of his village- he believes that the construction of a school is a fundamental tool in creating awareness and opportunities amongst and for the youth.

IC__qqOvTmvBOjdKVs9dMSB-oCNA0TCv65tM3PkVGuc

Nayaki, aged fifteen is married to a man much older than herself with whom she has a child. Teenage pregnancy is one of the challenges in Maasai societies that Jengo hopes to mitigate through the construction of a school and the creation of educational opportunities.

We ended a day of many impressions with bucket – list experience material in the form of dancing with some of the young “morans” (teens and young adults who have not yet completed the rite de passage to full adulthood). Jumping in the darkness of the chilly savannah surrounded by the shrill screams and croaks of a tribe that has walked the lands of Africa for thousands of years remains an unforgettable experience, etched in my memory like shards of glass scraped onto a brick wall.

9th July: A Day of Down-tempo Persuasions

The next day was quiet and sedate compared to the previous ones. Now accustomed to our presence, the children of Mlembule seemed less curious and more at ease in our company. We donated footballs and frisbees (compliments of a partnership with GAME Denmark, where both Lars-Ulrik and myself work from time to time) to an initially apprehensive group of boys.  Despite their initial hesitation, once they started playing football, they didn’t stop until only the cover of darkness deterred them from their newfound thrill. The sight of a community engaging in sport, particularly in a grassroots area like Mlembule is immensely rewarding. The competitive and sometimes elitist nature of sports distracts us from enjoying its power as a tool that is indispensable in the context of social bonding.

On this day, we also had the pleasure of meeting Khachichu, one of the few albinos in the area. Albinos in Africa face a dire and worrying threat of persecution and death due to ancient myths that maintain that their body parts have magical powers. For a young boy like Khachichu, this means that he cannot go anywhere unaccompanied by his parents. Another challenge facing Albino populations in Africa is the damaging effect that the sun has on their skin, which, due to a lack of pigment, is easily burned and damaged. Tanzania has the highest concentration of Albinos within its population demography – the problems that I speak of are real and severe. Khachichu was understandably shy if not shocked initially-strangers are not usually people he associates with and he seemed naturally suspicious of us from the start. Compliments of another of our partners, Derma, we donated sun cream to Khachichu in the hope that it will help protect him from the intense rays of the sun. Though wary, he thanked us with a reassuring glance – a mixture of bemusement, caution and appreciation that remains, like so many other memories, an engraved fixture in the back of my mind.

We ended our day in Chief Daudi’s hut where yet another elaborate dinner came our way. True to his hospitable nature, Daudi handed Lars-Ulrik and myself a series of gifts, all handmade.

11700598_1606041059671951_4554395392709983716_oKhachichu, aged 7 is one of several children with Albinism in the areas that we visited. Thanks to a donation of sun cream from Derma, he will now be able to play outside with greater ease, as there is less of a risk of getting sun burned. Find out how you can contribute to helping children like Khachichu here

9th -10th July: From Mlembule to the Mountains

We left Mlembule around noon, after some unexpected delays. The road to the Usambara mountains from the plains near Mombo rises steeply into the sky and the air cools with every road turn. Given that July is the coldest month in these parts, the sun was a rarity and the ground was wet and murky compliments of the rainy weather. The road to Lushoto was built by the Germans back when Tanzania was a colony and despite many a blind corner, remains functional if not entertaining to drive on. Upon our arrival in Lushoto we visited our local partner organisation, the Friends of Usambara society, where we interviewed the NGO’s leader, Yacin, who educated us on the problems of Albino-based discrimination in the country.  The Friends of Usambara Society is a grassroots organization that uses sustainable tourism to conserve the nature and culture of the Usambara Mountains region. Through Jengo, we chose them as partners due to their professionalism and impressive knowledge of the local area and its environs.

Substituting our diet of traditional Maasai staples with a meal of a European standard at the Irente Farm Lodge , Lars-Ulrik a I took time to plan the rest of our trip and take stock of all the numerous experiences we’d had hitherto. Our nights henceforth would be spent at a nearby orphanage – in a room where the aggressive purr of voracious mosquitos whizzing close to our mosquito nets made for a stark contrast to the breezy, insect-free evenings in our manyattas in Mlembule.

11855636_10153553013914450_9202319897244458828_nCool, damp land masses, the Usambara mountains contain diverse flora and fauna, like this particular plant pictured here

10th – 13th July: The Mountains

Our stay in Lushoto was more relaxing than our adventures in Mombo albeit less exciting as a result. Whilst in the Usambara mountains we visited Irente school for the blind where we donated more gifts from our heavy rucksacks. Mama Ruben, the school’s leader is a stalwart woman who is proud of her institution and the discipline of its students, all of whom wander freely around its campus despite being partially or fully blind. We also visited a family of two Albinos in the area. The perils of being an Albino in this part of the country are not as severe as they are in others and the foggy nature of the Usambara mountains means that skin-related complications affecting Albinos in this area are not as prevalent either. This notwithstanding, we donated more sun cream tubes from our Derma sponsorship and strengthened our knowledge on the subject of challenges facing Albinos.

Whilst in Lushoto we also had the opportunity to take a hike through the mountains, as part of the eco-tourism opportunities offered by the Friends of Usambara Society. Our guide, Khalifa was exceptionally knowledgeable when it came to the flora and fauna of the area. Without his guidance, however, we did run into several incidents with flycatchers who posed as friends that were keen in helping us along our way, only to lead us to sites such as viewpoints where we were required to pay for the pleasure of partaking in the breathtaking (and ultimately legally free scenery). A flycatcher is a term borrowed from The Lonely Planet that describes conmen of the aforementioned nature, who most often pose as travel buddies but ultimately work for larger travel companies and local establishments from whom they get a commission per number of tourists led into the trap. The practice is outlawed and illegal but prevalent in numerous areas in Tanzania and the rest of the world for that matter.

At one of the viewpoints visited, we paid a fee to the local hotel who had planted their establishment in such a way that it was almost impossible to access the summit of the hill through any other route. Despite this, we were presented with a hefty receipt by two shady-looking types posing as artists after we’d been sat on the rock ledge for long enough for them to pull off such a sneaky trick. All the while, a young man who’d followed us from a field close to the hotel entrance and pretended to be a loyal friend conveniently disappeared as soon as payments were made. I did negotiate the price from to a figure that was lower than the ludicrous quantity that had originally been mentioned and made a mention of my distaste of the whole process. Our negotiations were, however, complicated by the presence of what could only have been a very disturbed individual or an additional ploy in the con game whose goal was to scare those who didn’t comply with the process. This character, sat next to us on the ledge at the viewpoint overlooking the Mombo plains, proceeded to talk to himself in a language I didn’t quite grasp, save for a few Swahili words in the form of insults and threats to us. His eyes bore a rasping quality that I wasn’t keen on engaging a few feet away from a steep fall that dropped thousands of metres down into the misty sky.

We later found out that not only are such fees legally incorrect, the hotel, which markets its fee payments with the promise of a free soda, failed to offer us a beverage of any sort. The moral of this particular episode: Sadly, many parts of Tanzania (and other areas of the world where social inequality is prevalent) are places in which such trickery will always invariably exist. Negotiation tactics and the help of a local friend are indispensable.

IMG_3874

A “Simba all you can see is yours” moment at the pride rock-esque viewpoint near Lushoto. Expect flycatchers and shady schemes that will try to extract money from your pockets.

13th July: From the Mountains to Ngorongoro

Chapter 3 of our trip proved to be the most exciting and the most controversial yet. Poor communication between ourselves and our contacts in the northern frontier of Tanzania resulted in us boarding a bus from Mombo without knowing where exactly we were going to stay and what our final destination would be. We began the day taking photographs of the building of the concrete foundation for the school in Mlembule, where we drove down to from the mountains around noon. It was rewarding to see the fruits of our labour and the beauty of a dream coming to life before our eyes. The foundation has been completed following our return to Denmark.

11791766_10206821170945370_1157837110_n 11778209_10206821170785366_255126063_n

Genesis: Work commences on the construction of the foundation for a school just outside the Maasai village of Mlembule.

The Eid holiday festivities complicated our search for a decent bus so we ended up on one in which there was space for a couple of tourists who’d pay at premium , as opposed to one that would get us from A to B safely. This particular jalopy was crammed to the brim with passengers, some of whom were sat on dusty cushions above the engine. The talkative tout and ticket manager, devoid of space to sit, were forced to stand in a corner by the front door, where the former managed to snooze in a full upright position with his arms sprawled on a railing by the front window. Quite how the bus passed the weight checks along the seemingly unending highway remains a mystery though a fair bit of winking and smiles did take place between the bus driver and several initially cocky traffic cops.

Whilst on the bus, we received word from our contact, who saved us a trip to Karatu (our initial last minute solution planned destination). We met Ndoros Birika and his driver and business associate, Francis in Arusha from which we travelled north in the former’s Toyota Noah. Its sliding rear doors and polished upholstery and cabin were a welcome upgrade to the noisy, crammed bus we’d spent the last five hours in. Our rucksacks and our clothes were generously coated in a layer of thick dust, with the latter having spent the trip in a boot that had a large and uncanny hole with a prime view of the rolling asphalt below.

Ndoros is the brother of a Danish-Tanzanian friend of mine and hails from the village of Eswira, which we visited whilst in NgoroNgoro. He is one of the forces behind Maasai living, an eco-tourism initiative that aims to share the culture of the Maasai of the Ngorongoro conservation area with the rest of the world in a sustainable manner.

We stopped at a roadside inn in Karatu where we devoured a shared meal of chicken and chips served on a large platter layered with a delicious curry paste that kicked our taste buds and filled our travel-ridden stomachs. This done, Ndoros drove us to Kudu Lodge where we paid a meagre 10 dollars per evening for a night at their campsite (using equipment rented in Arusha). Kudu lodge is one of many tourist accommodation options in Karatu that offers great a 25 dollar buffet that is on par with most high-end dining. Its campsite is spacious and frequented by a mix of overlander safari tourists (budget tourists who usually travel in a modified rented truck) and keen adventurers in their SUVs.

14th July: Ngorongoro

We left Kudo lodge and the rather unpleasant outpost of Karatu and headed north towards Ngorongoro crater, a Unesco World Heritage Site and the site of one of Africa’s seven wonders – the largest unbroken caldera in the world. Whilst in Karatu, we spent the morning discussing the formalities of our trip with Ndoros, who hails from the village of Esirwa, near Endulen on just under the crater rim. To this effect, we purchased stationery and foodstuffs which we would later donate to the women and children of the area.

The cost of entering the crater is an astronomic 200 USD per vehicle. This buys a one-day permit and does not include the fee that you end up paying the driver (assuming you don’t drive yourself). Once past the gate – a site of the usual haggling and inefficiency that denotes most government-run affairs (mingled with affluent oriental tourists taking selfies of their surgical face masks), more pleasant sites lie ahead. Ngorongoro rises steeply as one drives through a refreshing mist that cools the senses with irreproachable panache. The road to the crater rim is muddy and lined with herds of buffalo sporting blank expressions and a disinterested demeanour.  The crater viewpoint, though breathtaking, is awfully touristic and crammed with the selfie hordes and their over excited mannerisms.  Once this is left behind, the wilderness opens, like a ream of rolling paper in the wind. Our driver floored the Land Rover across the alpine tundra terrain with a vengeance, clocking over 80 kph as we whizzed past herds of zebra and the occasional Maasai clad in the brilliant red attire and elaborate jewellery that singles them out against the grassy backdrop of shrubbery and stunted trees.

IMG_3887Looking down at the crater floor: The mist on Ngongoro crater sweeps through in gentle bouts, cooling everything it touches with a witty sophistication, before slithering gently down into the valley below.

The village of Esirwa (near the town of Endulen) lies on a ridge overlooking Lake Eyasi – a salt lake at the base of the Serengeti plateau. Above Esirwa, the land rises gently towards the Ngorongoro crater rim. One of many small villages and hamlets that dot the alpine tundra landscape with small pockets of thatched huts and cattle bomas (enclosures), this is a place of immense beauty, with soothing views of the surrounding areas.

Skærmbillede 2015-08-28 kl. 14.22.38Esirwa lies just south of the settlement of Endulen, pictured here by Google Earth

We reached Esirwa at noon, to yet another elaborate welcoming. By contrast to our arrival in Mlembule, there was a designated welcoming committee consisting of just under 100 men and women from surrounding villages who formed long, elaborate chains as they broke out in traditional song and dance. A goat was slaughtered in our honour and roasted on a fire made by rubbing dried twigs onto metal – a process that involves 3-4 people and takes time to ignite. The Maasai of Ngorongoro, isolated from the rest of the country as they are, have maintained a way of life that is unique in many aspects. For example, the Ngorongoro conservation area is home to a dense lion population that lives in relative harmony with the Maasai of this area. Both man and beast share a mutual fear of and respect for each other, avoiding confrontation where necessary. In the past, some Maasai traditions dictated that killing a lion marked the passage into adulthood for young men. Such customs are, however, out-dated, at least as far as this particular area we visited are concerned. However, there are many who have had various run-ins with lions and other wild animals, the results of which have sometimes resulted in casualties on both sides.

On the topic of wild animals – having chosen to sleep in a tent on the edge of the village, I was rudely awaken at some uncouth hour of the evening by the barks of some of the village mongrels who seemed agitated. The barking intensified to the point at which whimpers of fear and groans of panic that tend to signify imminent danger broke out all around our tent. Unable to see anything from the inside of the tent, I checked my mobile phone and noted that there was no signal. The dogs grew increasingly vocal and paced up and down with a vengeance, snarling at whatever wild creature lurked in the unforgiving darkness beyond. From the goat boma (enclosure), the sound of sneezing and shuffling – a tell-tale giveaway of there being something amiss did little to quell the tension. There was a hunter in our midst and whatever it was, it was quite unrelenting. Unarmed, out of mobile phone coverage and unable to see what was going on outside, I drew comfort in the loud flapping of our flimsy tent, which buckled and heaved in the chilly evening wind. It was dawn by the time the dogs calmed down.

The next day we discovered that the village had been visited by a predator, most probably a leopard, going by the verdict that most of those we spoke to about the racket gave. Dogs in particular have a dislike and fear of leopards, a foe against whom they stand very little chance. Recounting my experiences as a child in my dad’s military cottage on the edge of Mount Kenya’s forest, I recalled with some distaste that many of our dogs were frequently mauled by an invasive leopard. Their cries for help as they shot under the cottage in the hope that an advancing leopard would not engage them in such tight confines were not that different to what we’d heard the previous evening in Esirwa.  We spent the rest of our stay here in Ndoros’ hut, which he lent us with a grin on his face as he contended that there had indeed been something wild prowling the village environs the previous evening.

IMG_3934

Song and dance : The Maasai of Esirwa welcomed us to their village with verve and colour. Seldom have I seen such a display of generousity.

15th July : A Second Wedding

The sun rose against the NgoroNgoro escarpment, chasing away the morning mist that had settled on its tip; an elaborate changing of the guard that demarcated yet a rare beautiful sunrise.

We commenced this day with a trip to the local makeshift school. Formerly a ranger’s hut, the Maasai of Esirwa have transformed this building set on a ridge on the descent to Lake Eyasi, into a singular class school that is over packed with many of the village kids. Education is a right that many Maasai are deprived of in many parts of Tanzania and the problem is particularly significant in this area as I will elaborate a bit later. We handed out sweets and the stationary we’d bought in Karatu to a group of beaming kids, who ushered us with various songs. Ndoros then departed for Arusha to take care of some business that had come up and left us under the care of Mackay, his younger brother.

DSC_0164

Handing out sweets  and school stationary to the Maasai kids of Esirwa. Access to education is yet another challenge hampering the wellbeing of this area.

The day continued with our second Maasai wedding in a week, which, having already attended one in Mlembule a few days ago, was now a procedure that we were quite familiar with. One of the highlights of this wedding was standing in the middle of a hut crammed with over 30 chanting Maasai. The dark, smoky confines of the hut accentuated the sensorial immersion in what I can only describe as a great and incredible experience of human bonding. In the gadget-laden material world in which many of us live, such experiences have become a sought-after rarity. The Maasai, with their far simpler lifestyles and clan society gel with each other remarkably during such situations, with little anxiety or awkwardness. We can learn so much from a society that, in material terms, has so little.

IMG_4023Bride, groom and the ensemble of dancing men and women in Eswirwa (Lake Eyasi spreads like a cloth over the horizon, many miles below)

With the formalities of the wedding behind us, we conducted interviews with Mackay, our host with whom we wandered many kilometres into the wilderness, keen on discovering the surrounding area with our own eyes.

The Maasai of Ngorongoro face a dire and imminent threat to their way of life and to their welfare from the very same Tanzanian government that uses them as part of their marketing gimmickry to attract tourists to the crater area. Recent legislation has made it illegal for the Maasai to cultivate crops in this area, be it on a subsistence level. The governments justification for this is the preservation of the land, given its significance as a world heritage site. However, this argument seems void in the face of two factors :

  1. The exorbitant park entry fees charged to tourists who visit the area and more importantly their distribution. Despite having set up a fund for the provision of grain to communities living inside the Ngorongoro conservation area, no funds have been appropriated to the Maasai. Where grain has been provided, it has been of sub-par, subsidised quality in measly quantities that do not address the requirements of the population.
  2. The prioritization of tourism in the area via the construction of more lodges and the arrival of more tourists. The consumption requirements  and environmental impact of both of the aforementioned far exceed those of any Maasai of the Ngorongoro conservation area, even if subsistence farming is plugged into the equation.

Complicating this systematic exclusion of a minority group from social and political agency, the very same Tanzanian government set up a pastoralists council to preside over democratic concerns on the part of the Maasai. The aim of this organisation was to give a voice to the Maasai such that they gained political representation and had a say in the governance and management of the land in which they live and have lived for many years now. As you might have expected, this organisation is in fact a mere mouthpiece – lip service to human rights and democracy that falsely casts the government in a positive light for anyone who does a bit of light research on the problem at hand. Moreover, the government does little to provide communities within the Ngorongoro area with access to human rights such as water, health and education. In the case of Esirwa, the distance to drinkable water is a whooping 5 kilometres- a walk down and up a steep hillside that is made, most lamentably, almost always by the women of the village.

When fused, these factors in effect imply that the Maasai of the Ngorongoro crater area are a starving population, forced to eat their cattle (status symbols in their culture) and robbed of rights to education and clean water.  Whatever protests that they have made against this plight have been quelled by false promises from the government and penalties for cultivating crops have resulted in prison sentences for many Maasai. Those Maasai who have left the area in search of other opportunities are often confronted by the realities of not having had an education that gives them the opportunity to acquire jobs within a broad spectrum of interests. Instead, most end up as night watchmen and other odd jobs, compounding the exclusion of the Maasai from the social narrative.

Let’s add a further element of complication to this messy weave of injustice shall we ? Having conducted interviews with several Maasai of the NgoroNgoro area, I was relieved to hear that DANIDA (The Danish Ministry of Foreign Affairs) had been in this area for over a decade in which they had worked proactively and effectively to help the local community with its development needs. However, for reasons that nobody seemed able to articulate, they departed from the area and, as is the case with many an NGO, one has to ask the question “Was the area better off before they intervened or not ?” Undoubtedly their efforts were significant for the time they lasted, however, the departure of a major aid donor from an area that is otherwise paralysed due to inaction from its shady government, leaves a void that stands out as an ulcer on clean flesh. I have to date failed to established why DANIDA left Ngorongoro crater but then again, I do disagree vehemently with the quantitative modus operandi of many NGO’s and governments for that matter, much of which involves the achievement of concrete short-term goals and has little room for longer-term, non-quantifiable focus that entails a more detailed and comprehensive presence in areas afflicted by human rights deficiencies. My perplexed state was and still hasn’t been eased by the fact that it was DANIDA that sent us to this area in the first place (having sponsored us via its verdenslegat scholarship which I mentioned at the start of this article).

As the sun dipped beneath the dusty horizon and the sky burned in an awe-striking allure of red and grey, we headed to bed with heavy hearts. Lars-Ulrik animatedly suggested that we stage a demonstration at the Ngongoro conservation ara entry gate, flanked by the Maasai of the area. I liked the romanticism behind it but it seemed, at least then, to be an idea that would require a tremendous amount of planning and there is no doubt that the Tanzanian government would be quick to get word of such an amassment of people and act in a manner that would deter it, using their technical and legislative superiority. On the other hand, I had no suggestions as to what else could be done. I want to help a community who have treated me with the utmost respect, a community who warmed to the fact that my Kenyan grandmother is in fact, a Maasai by birth (she was later kidnapped by the Kamba tribe with which the Maasai were at loggerheads with in the days before British imperialism had its heyday). Both Lars-Ulrik and I have been embraced by the Maasai in whatever capacity we have engaged with them. Unlike the rest of Tanzania, where one has to maintain constant vigil when it comes to ones possessions, in Maasailand, we were able to leave our possessions anywhere we chose, secure in the knowledge that they would not be pilfered. Why wouldn’t we want to help this community ? Why wouldn’t we be touched to the point of tears and anger when it came to hearing of the incredulity and incompetence of the Tanzanian government ?

IMG_3904

A great and noble people; a culture of song, dance, festivity – colour. The Tanzanian government seems keen on using the Maasai to market tourism. The very same government is systematically starving this minority group by denying them farming rights and robbing them of the profits gained through tourism in the area

16th – 17th July: The Rest of Ngorongoro

We slept much better in the airy hut that Ndoros gave us when compared to our vulnerable snooze the previous evening in the billowing mess of a tent that littered the pristine view of the village below us. During our stay in Ngorongoro I befriended a young pup that looked certain to die of malnutrition within a week. Whilst the Maasai are adept pastoralists who share an impenetrable bond with their livestock, their skills with domestic (or semi-domestic as you will) animals are not as refined. Without passing any judgement, I often took pity on the harsh treatment handed out to some of the dogs and cats we encountered on the trip (and no, I am not an animal-rights activist, but having grown up as the only child of my age surrounded by cats and dogs, I do have a special affinity to them, particularly as concerns the latter.) I am also well aware of the plight of the Maasai of this area – they are starving, systematically excluded from agency by their pathetic government – what little food they do have surely must be shared and more often than not, there is not enough to go around, let alone to feed dogs.

I plucked ticks from the pups shaggy hair and where possible, gave him scraps of fat and bone from my plate of food (in small doses initially as his state of malnutrition was such that he would easily have thrown up as his small stomach was not used to large quantities of food). He was also fond of milky tea, which I cooled for him before serving it in a disused lid. All of this was of course hidden from the gaze of our hosts.  The pup grew strong as the days passed and his misty eyes lit up with the canine joie de vivre that is a gift to any dog aficionado. At night, as the seething wind ripped its cold fangs into anything it could get a hold of, he sneakily dug a passageway under the front door of the hut through which he could crawl. His evenings were spent either snuggled at the foot of the bed or outside our door, where even at a young age, he displayed attractive traits of loyalty, obedience and gratitude.

fgwundQdWFkQ02DekiPsnZ9gkSoKO_XwzEfRGaqEwqA

Making friends with the local pooch- this little chap provided companionship and security in return for a few scraps of food and milky tea

Our day began with a trek down to the village water source – a trip that took hours and involved a tricky ascent on the return leg. I was shocked to bear witness to how long it took to foot it back and forth and could only imagine what it must be like to have to make this trip daily with 20 or more kilos of water in a jerrycan strapped to ones head as the women we encountered at the stream do.  This water source has, in recent years, wandered further downstream due to poor rains and a falling water table. It is also a water body that is shared by the wild animals of the area, elephants included, so coming here after dusk is an absolute no-go. The sense of its remote location was accentuated by various spoor including the unmistakable pattern of a snake slither, less than a couple of hours old. The serpent to whom the tracks belonged was surely a full-grown adult, judging by the worryingly thick tracks. Of all of the solutions to the water predicaments of this area, that of building a tank at the village base and piping down to a pump at the water source seems the most logical. The construction of a well is also worth researching. However, these things take time and money – a mere surveillance of the area is in itself a costly affair. Where to start and which problems are more important than others ?

gT-LbNFggnNuvlOwmv6p0ga6XQjD24b-K-imwyKC6oU

The long trip to fetch water from the spring in one of the ravines leading down to Lake Eyasi. Women such as the ones pictured here struggle with heavy loads like these on a daily basis.

Tired from the morning walk, we spent the rest of the day relaxing and chatting in the village. For the first time, I began to see how the relaxed, lethargic pace of things could lead to boredom. As I spotted numerous vodka sachets strewn across the edges of the village, I became aware that for some of this village, the vice of alcohol addiction is surely also another challenge that faces this community.

We drifted off to bed amidst the distant roar of a prowling lion against the voracious darkness of a night sky decorated with picture-perfect starlight.

17th July : Our last day in Esirwa

A sedate day compared to the previous ones, today involved a trip to Endulen, where the weekly market was in full swing. The Land Rover that we’d hired upon our entry into the crater the first day returned with its hustling driver, who kept on offering what seemed like genuine offers such as a trip into the crater base. I smelled a rat and declined most of them, knowing that he would most certainly add them as extras to the already exorbitant fee he slapped us with at the end of our trip.

Endulen market was a mix of grilled meat spread on converted metal camp beds and an array of wares such as household items, spices, fruits and vegetables lay strewn over a square kilometre or so of brilliant red,  black and blue – the colours of the attire of the Maasai. An overloaded truck packed with all manner of goods that dangled over its sides snaked into the mass of colour and looked close to tipping as it turned sharply to evade the sprawl of wares below it. The scene resembled a medieval bazaar, devoid of any sophistication whatsoever. Lars-Ulrik and I stood out like blood on white paper amongst the masses of well-dressed Maasai, many of whom had made the extra effort of wearing their finest blankets, shoes and embellishments.

On the way back, we stopped by an old tree that is regarded as sacred by the Maasai and threw several flowers by its base, as tradition dictates.  The rest of the day and evening seemed to drag on endlessly. We processed and sorted hours of footage from all of our recent exploits and shut eye rather early.

18th July: From Ngorongoro to Arusha

We left Esirwa early in the morning, just as the sun was coming up and drove into the effervescent, smoky mist at the crater rim, passing herds of disinterested grazing buffalo on the way. After haggling over the price (and all manner of ludicrous additions that were not part of our original agreement), we paid our driver and parted ways with him in Karatu. I was glad to bid farewell to this town and its touristy feel and all the hustling that confronts one at every corner. We drove south to Arusha and checked into the Kibo Palace hotel where we stayed for the next two nights in pristine poolside comfort, certainly compared with the basic living that had demarcated our experience hitherto. Compliments of a deal that my mum managed to work out with Mr Lasgwai, the earnest and generous owner of this establishment, we managed to get two free nights here, during which we were able to relax and recount our experiences from the last two weeks.

Whilst in Arusha, we did an interview with Alais Morindat, an exceptionally bright man of Maasai origin who has worked in development for over a quarter of a century. Alais shed light on the exact nature of the Ngorongoro predicament, adding an academic articulation to the problem that brought him close to tears. From so many perspectives, the predicament of the Maasai of NgoroNgoro is one that seems unjust and unreasonable. What’s even more worrying is the fact that many of the tourists who visit Ngorongoro crater are blissfully unaware of it – for them, the smiling Maasai and their dapper make for formidable pictures that they can show their friends back home- part and parcel of an aesthetically pleasing view but nothing else.

19th-20th July: The End of The Road

We left Arusha early in the morning of the 19th and made the tedious 10-hour bus trip to Dar Es Salaam. The countryside rolled out like an eternal carpet before us and the trip seemed endless. The soggy unpleasantness of Dar smacked us head-on as we sat stuck in traffic queues on the city outskirts despite the fact that it was Sunday. We stayed at the safari inn again and left frightfully early the next morning. Lars-Ulrik jetted off to Denmark with all the footage and equipment from our trip and I took a short flight to Kenya, where I would spend the next couple of weeks with my family. Africa’s highest mountain, Mount Kilimanjaro, stood out brilliantly on the left of the Kenya Airways plane as I flew towards Nairobi, flanked by the steep Mount Meru, near Arusha further on. I was shocked to see just how little snow is left on Kilimanjaro’s summit-years of climate change have eaten away at what once was a generous coating of snow and glacial ice and what little is left will almost certainly disappear within the next decade.

FtTfZ2bNFvLobmbfA1uyhivZ3jgQ06xaR9ICFBVuLbs

Where to next ? The challenges we encountered on our trips are numerous and complex, but nothing that cannot be solved with a bit of effort and patience.

As I reached the end of my trip, I recapped on a monumental two weeks amongst some of the most generous people I have had the pleasure of meeting. The plight of the Maasai in Tanzania is a matter of concern not merely for Jengo and the work that we engage in but also on a personal level. I went to Tanzania to shoot an 8-minute documentary for DANIDA and commence the building of a school and came back with enough material and impressions to make two films, the second of which, I hope, will shed light on the NgoroNgoro conservation area and the challenges that face the Maasai in this region.  The helplessness of this situation lies in the fact that a minority group is being systematically starved of its rights and devoid of significant democratic representation, they cannot articulate the problems that they face – they are bereft of the ability to scream; to draw attention to their plight. In the case of Mlembule, I would say that the problems at hand at more direct and easier to solve. Infrastructurally the area is easier to get to and there are others like Jengo who work with local communities to create social change.

So where do we go from here ? I wrote this lengthy article in the hope of answering a question that many have posed, regarding my trip. “How was it ?” – Well, it was mind-blowing, moving, riveting, you name it. It was also an opportunity to illustrate how small actions can have big impacts and that you don’t need to be millionaire philanthropist to make a change. I hope that the films that will be made over the next year or so can help shed light on some of the issues I’ve mentioned here and I am also very hopeful that we can complete the school we have started building in Mlembule, with your help and support.

Find out how you can donate and what your money is used for here and feel free to give us feedback regarding our work in Tanzania. We are also on the lookout for voluntary help for our NGO.

Skærmbillede 2015-08-30 kl. 14.53.19 

Denmark’s ten must-see concerts in September

Original article written for The Local Denmark, available here

September is a month synonymous with the buzz of the back-to-school rush and new beginnings for many. As we head into a late Indian summer (which we all hope will last just a bit longer), there are quite a few shows popping up on The Local’s gig radar.

The Charlatans
Amager Bio, September 2 at 8pm
Amager Bio have pulled off a major coup here, reeling in a band whose contribution to rock music for over 20 years has been nothing short of seminal. Despite not being able to steal the Madchester scene’s heart with as much aplomb as contemporaries such as The Happy Mondays and The Stone Roses did in their heyday, this is a band that has had all 12 of its studio albums chart amongst the UK Top 40 (three of which have graced the number one spot).

Foals
Store Vega, September 10 at 8pm
Probably the only genuine rock booking on Vega’s calendar this September, Foals are a quintet that hail from Oxford, England. Stalwarts in any good modern-day rock playlist, theirs is an upbeat and raucous on the genre that features indie-esque vocals in high, jittery pitches. A refreshing addition to late summer.

Parquet Courts
Pumpehuset, September 10 at 9pm
Strap in for a whizzing ride through rapid-fire rock laden with a hefty dose of summer campfire material. Originally from Texas, Parquet Courts sound like a a hybrid of Blink 182 and Vampire Weekend tipped with a psychedelic sting from the 13th Floor Elevators.

Soundvenue Session: Stormzy & Big Narstie
Pumpehuset, September 18 at 9pm
The prodigal son of genres such as garage, hip-hop and drum and bass, grime epitomizes the uncut, rude urban underground of London. Now enjoying a renaissance of sorts following a slight fade over the past years, grime’s rise has been picked up by Denmark’s Soundevenue magazine, which has booked two of the genre’s ambassadors, Stormzy & Big Narstie, for an evening of underground action at Pumpehuset.

James Zabiela
Culture Box, September 19 at 9pm
In the world in which superstar selfie DJs such as David Guetta and Steve Aoki are one-eyed men with the stature of kings in the land of the blind, technical maestros like James Zabiela are a refreshing reminder  that good things are hard to come by. Zabiela’s musical strengths are expressed through introspective, technically-astute explorations of the electronic music genre. Even by Culture Box’s standards, this is a great booking.

Vega Club & Borneland presents: Les Loups
Ideal Bar, 19 Sept at 11pm
The Borneland brothers (Jonas and Micki) have become a permanent fixture on the Copenhagen disco and house scene since they made their advances into it half a decade or so ago. Making the transition to music production, Borneland look to be taking other talented outfits under their wing – in this case, Les Loups. Prepare for an evening of pop-inclined house and nu disco.

Baby Love & The Van Dangos
Loppen, September 25 at 9pm
Arguably not the most well-known of bands, Baby Love & The Van Dangos churn out the sort of ska that would be at home on a Caribbean island. That they are, in fact, from cold and dreary Denmark only makes them more interesting and with a gig in Christiania, expect them to be entirely in their element.

Seasick Steve
Amager Bio, September 26 at 9pm
Seasick Steve epitomizes what music should be about. A self-trained musician, Steve fled a home eroded by alcohol at the tender age of 14 and lived the life of a wandering hobo for many years (he has since settled in Norway). Now an old and discerning man, Steve performs his spontaneous blues renditions using home-made instruments that lack acoustic perfection and are wholeheartedly brilliant by such virtue.

Reptile Youth & Abby Portner
Bremen Theatre, September 29 at 8:30 pm
When I first saw Reptile Youth a few years ago at the Roskilde Festival’s Pavilion Junior stage, I was blown away by their immense stage presence and thought to myself, “this band is headed somewhere.” Fast forward a few years and the Danish rock band are playing a more mature, settled sound backed by Mercedes Benz, who’ve jumped at the content marketing opportunity to support a group that could easily become the latest cult phenomenon. For this particular outing they will be joined by Abby Porter (known for her exploits with psychedelic pioneers Animal Collective), who will take care of the visual and stage setup.

Action Bronson
Store Vega, September 30 at 8pm
The physical appearance of Action Bronson bears a strange resemblance to the hirsute, hip-seeking types of hoods such as Vesterbro. An astute-as-they-come rapper and the son of an Albanian Muslim and an American Jew, Bronson epitomizes the plurality of New York’s Queens where he hails from. In under a year, he has gone from being a Lille Vega floor filler to a full-grown stage killer. We have yet to see the best of Action Bronson.

Denmark’s ten must-see concerts in August

Original article for The Local Denmark

With the lazy holiday month of July behind us, August promises a number of good musical experiences and festivals to round off the summer.
Heading into late summer, gone are the roaring, chaotic festivals of June and the sedate vibe of July. August is not the wildest of months for Danish festivals, but it does feature lesser-known ones and an opportunity to well and truly enjoy some great music in the sun before the the cold autumn rains herald the end to yet another all-too-brief Danish summer.

Here’s some of what to look forward to:

Beth Hart

Amager Bio, 3 August at 8pm

Beth Hart’s powerful vocals echo in one’s ears days after attending one of her fantastic live performances. Now in her early 40’s, the multiple Grammy nominee returns to an established and ever-expanding fanbase here in Denmark.

YoungBlood Brass Band

Lille Vega, 4 August at 9pm

The Local’s pick of the month, YoungBlood Brass Band are yet another export from the music Mecca of New Orleans. Pioneers of the genre of riot brass – a feisty combination of hip-hop inspired instrumentals with swathes of funk and percussive panache – YoungBlood Brass Band are sure to provide a whole evening’s worth of great entertainment.

Rob Zombie

Store Vega, 5 August at 8pm

As the name suggests, the music of Rob Zombie is not for the faint of heart. Zombie’s live shows entail a video game-like immersion into a universe of drama, horror and raw metal that has helped the band make a solid name for itself over the years.

STRØM Festival: The Party Cruise

MS BJØRNSHOLM, 8 August at 6pm

Now a permanent fixture on the festival calendar, Copenhagen’s STRØM Festival is less intense (and less-known) than many of the major music festivals in the city. However, the experiences it offers are truly unique. One of the highlights of this year’s event will be a boat cruise organised by the record label WAA Industry. Kenton Slash Demon, Kasper Marott og Kristian Kjôller will be doing the honours on board, providing soothing electronic music for the occasion.

STRØM Festival: Copenhagen Metro

The Metro Line, 11 August, check STRØM festival’s webpage for exact time

Staying in the vein of unique STRØM experiences, this particular one takes the form of a metro ride with live deejays. The music tends to straddle the borderline between weird and experimentally cool, so don’t expect something like your typical festival experience (there will be other normal commutters on board too, some of whom won’t be too enthused), but do expect an experience that you’ll rarely get anywhere else in the world.

Vince Staples

(Moved from the 20th of June) Lille Vega, August 12 at 8pm

Staples’ original show penned for the 20th of June failed to materialize. We featured him in our June listings however, so here he is again. Several years after carving out a name for himself with a series of recordings for the established Odd Future crew, Long Beach rapper Vince Staples has evolved to become one of the most exciting names in rap music today. His upbringing, run-ins with authorities and prior near-misses are frequently the subject of his lyrics, many of which take a poetic stab at some of the inequalities of life.

König

Ideal Bar, August 20 at 9pm

Ahead of a debut album release this autumn, Danish R&B duo König still don’t have much material to help us gauge what they’re all about. The little they do have, however, is enough to suggest that this a band with quite a bit of potential; soft vocals in the R&B tradition combined with sharp electronic influences.

Derrick May

Culture Box, August 21 at 9pm

Derrick May is known as one of the Belleville three. Along with Kevin Saunderson and Juan Atkins, May was one of the pioneers of the Detroit techno genre that emerged from the industrial backdrop of the motor city and spread across the world ever since. In a dance music landscape dominated by the age of selfies and pseudo superstar deejays, this show promises to be a trip back in time.

Fort Minor

Pumpehuset, August 26 at 8pm

Growing up, Linkin Park was one of the bands I was most inspired by. Linkin Park fans, rejoice, as pianist and rapper Mark Shinoda will be bringing his solo project, Fort Minor, to the grunge confines of Copenhagen’s Pumpehuset. Less rock-inclined than the sounds of Linkin Park, Fort Minor wanders down a more percussive and often gloomier path.

Jurassic 5

Store Vega, August 29 at 8pm

One of the seminal bands in the history of hip-hop, Jurassic 5 returns to Denmark for their third outing here, following their previous shows at Vega and Northside, respectively. Theirs is a breed of hip-hop that, by comparison to the development of the genre today, remains a class apart. It’s vintage musicianship that is true to its roots, and they are anything but Jurassic.

For more stories about Denmark, join us on Facebook and Twitter

Allan Mutuku-Kortbæk (allanm46@gmail.com)

The Local’s top ten Roskilde concerts

Original article published in The Local Denmark

Roskilde Festival 2015

The Local's top ten Roskilde concerts

Whether it was at the expansive Orange stage or one of the festival’s more intimate settings, there were no shortage of good concerts. Photo: Sophia Juliane Lydolph/Scanpix

The Local’s top ten Roskilde concerts

Published: 05 Jul 2015 21:34 GMT+02:00
Updated: 05 Jul 2015 21:34 GMT+02:00

Roskilde Festival has once again come and gone, leaving a trail of smiles, laughs and memorable experiences in its wake. This year’s lineup was more commercial than previous years, with less rock and metal on the billing, but there was still more than plenty to satisfy all musical tastes.

A testament to the Roskilde Festival’s diversity can be found here in our picks for best concert. Our two writers, Justin Cremer and Allan Mutuku-Kortbæk, have quite different tastes and there isn’t a single repeat among their respective choices for the year’s five best performances.

Justin Cremer’s top five 2015 Roskilde Festival concerts:

5. Africa Express
Arena, July 4

Photo: Torben Christensen/Scanpix

I caught parts of 28 different concerts at this year’s Roskilde Festival, so getting it down to five picks is no easy task. Several others could have just as easily taken this spot – Dolomite Minor, Father John Misty, The Gaslamp Killer Experience or Mastodon, to name a few – but Africa Express gets the nod as it is where I closed out the 2015 Roskilde Festival, surrounded by good friends and treated to an impressive international jam session that had been going strong for nearly three hours when I packed it in.

4. St Vincent
Arena, July 2

Photo: Simon Læssøe/Scanpix
Photo: Simon Læssøe/Scanpix

I knew basically nothing about St Vincent before strolling in to the Arena stage on Thursday afternoon and when I left I wasn’t quite sure how to describe what I’d just seen. I think my feeble attempt to explain it to a friend later was something along the lines of “robot pop-rock” and perhaps that’s as good as anything. This was a tightly-performed – even occasionally choreographed – and very high-energy performance, highlighted by a final song played on the shoulders of a security guard with St Vincent sporting an ear-to-ear grin that revealed that she had just had as much fun as the audience.

3. Chelsea Wolfe
Gloria, July 4

Photo: Justin Cremer
Photo: Justin Cremer

The intimate Gloria stage was the perfect setting for an absolutely hypnotic performance by Chelsea Wolfe. Her particular mix of dark folk mixed with occasional blasts of rage may have on the surface been a strange pick for a hot and sunny day at Roskilde, but the enchanting Wolfe delivered one of my best musical experiences of the four days.

2. The War on Drugs
Arena, July 1

Photo: Simon Skipper/Scanpix
Photo: Simon Skipper/Scanpix

This was the show I was looking most forward to heading in to the festival and Adam Granduciel and company certainly did not disappoint. The setlist was very heavy on last year’s stellar album ‘Lost in the Dream’ with the performance putting just enough new nuances into the songs to really bring them alive. This was a powerhouse rock ‘n’ roll performance.

1. Goat
Friday, July 3


Photo: Justin Cremer

It is perhaps fitting that I don’t have a particularly good photo to go along with my top choice. The late night performance from these costume-draped Swedes who mix experimental psychedelic rock with African beats didn’t seem to be on the radar of too many, but those of us who were there were treated to what felt like a blissful mix between occult ritual and raging dance party. In a Roskilde Festival full of unexpected musical surprises, this one was the best.

Allan Mutuku-Kortbæk’s top five 2015 Roskilde Festival concerts:

5. Timbuktu
Arena, July 1


Photo: Bobby Anwar

Consistent, calm, confident. Those are the words that underline the show of veteran Swedish rapper Timbuktu. It’s never easy for Swedes to perform at Roskilde and earn critical acclaim, but Timbuktu put on a solid show good enough to scrape into our top ten anyway.

4. Kendrick Lamar
Orange, July 3

Photo: Bobby Anwar

Kendrick Lamar epitomized the booking policy at Roskilde this year: bombastic, commercial and appealing to the youth. Orange stage host Per Vers introduced him as the man he thought is the best rapper at the moment before his show and whilst some of us may disagree with such a grandiose claim, Kendrick did put on a top-notch performance before a packed Orange stage.

3. Mew
Orange, July 3

Photo: Simon Læssøe/Scanpix
Photo: Simon Læssøe/Scanpix

Danish rock band Mew played at Roskilde’s Orange stage missing one of their frontmen, guitarist Bo Madsen, who left the group just last week after 20 years. On their sixth appearance at the festival, this time as a trio, Mew were brilliant and endearing, backed by the solid Danish following that they’ve built over the years.

2. Die Antwoord
Orange, July 2


Photo: Bobby Anwar

South African duo Die Antwoord brought the Orange crowd to its knees with an emblematic, raucous performance that few expected would be as good as it turned out to be. Given that they are not well-known locally, their psycho blend of Afrikaans rap and trashy shrill vocals proved to be an even bigger hit. Frankly, Roskilde has rarely seen something of this nature.

1. Florence and The Machine
Orange, July 2


Photo: Jens Nørgaard Larsen/Scanpix

How Big, How Blue, How Beautiful – not only is that the title of indie band Florence and The Machine’s remarkable new album, it’s also a good descriptor of their show at Roskilde’s Orange stage. The voice of Florence Welsh, the singer at the forefront of the band, is a force to be reckoned with – she found herself at home at a packed Orange stage, with the big, blue beautiful sky above a sea of smiling fans.

Living Amongst The Maasai, Lessons Learned

Been living amongst the Maasai for the last week or so. It has been an emotional experience. The foundations of the school we are building in the Lushoto district have been laid and we have acquainted ourselves with many of the broader issues that confront the Maasai, particularly in the Ngorongoro crater area. Our NGO, Jengo is committed to addressing some of these issues, with support from local partners operating at the grassroots level in this country. Thanks to everyone who’s contributed so far !

11539775_10153456836884450_4835043402195259238_n

11143456_10153456838209450_8281903407727645863_n

11760250_10153456838829450_5884279473444738125_n

11709668_10153456838484450_3562546251873952741_n

11703067_10153456836864450_8379654054093415249_n

Traveling to Tanzania to Make A Difference

Screen shot 2015-07-31 at 11.33.17 AMS

Several months ago a mate approached me with the idea of starting a Non- Governmental organisation that could help others in society. Many meetings later, Lars Ulrik and I find ourselves on the way to Tanzania, Africa to sow the first seeds of hope for various communities in the Northern part of the country. We will start the building of a school in the Tanga region that will serve as a hub for the education of young Maasai girls in coming years and help protect Albinos confronted by persecution based on unfortunate prejudices within their communities. We will also make a short documentary about it all, sponsored by a generous grant that we won through Danida, the proceeds of which, once our expenses have been calculated, will be donated to the building of the school. But we need more and we need you – If the idea of helping others help themselves sounds appealing – check out our project via Jengo.dk and find out how you can contribute and what your donations are invested in. I am excited and curious ahead of our trip as I return to the beautiful continent I left 10 score years ago.

Rf15: Sustainability never tasted so good

Roskilde Festival 2015 reaches its closure on Saturday for one last day of revelry under the summer sun. Temperatures will reach their highest point of the festival and this year’s biggest name, Paul McCartney, will lead a massive sing-along on the Orange stage.

After three full days of music, we’ve seen acts like Pharrell Williams, The War on Drugs, Goat, St Vincent and Sarabi play to popular approval whilst others like Noel Gallagher’s High Flying Birds and Mastodon have disappointed somewhat.

But Roskilde is more than just music, as the organizers of the annual event constantly reaffirm.

One of the increasingly important aspects at the festival is its focus on quality food and beverages. Last year’s event saw 700,000 kilos of food and approximately one million litres of beer sold. Given Roskilde’s environmental focus, the organizers of the event have become stricter when it comes to the sorts of food products that are sold on the festival grounds.

According to Mikkel Sander, Roskilde Festival’s sustainability leader, the festival has for many years “explored different avenues and set higher demands with regard to sustainability initiatives.”

This has entailed an inclination to donating leftovers to charities, in an effort to curb waste. Last year alone, over 27.5 tonnes of food was donated to the homeless in the form of 65,000 meals – an initiative that earned special praise at the European Festival Awards.

See also: Leftover festival food feeds thousands

At least 45 percent of the food stalls at Roskilde Festival sell organic food. This figure is set to rise to 90 percent by 2017 and as you may expect, is easier said than done. Organizers say that it is harder to procure organic products and suppliers than traditional ones. This is is especially true of beer, one of the most consumed products at the event.

In addition to its ambitious organic agenda, Roskilde has also made an effort to integrate the consumption of food and beverage into the overall festival experience. To this end, the festival has staged several food events, from a communal street kitchen during the warm-up days to educational palette-tickling experiments by Michelin-star chefs. The Local was particularly impressed with the Food Jam in the centre of the East city. Now a fixture within the Roskilde experience, the food jam presents an opportunity for groups and individuals to cook together, using high quality organic ingredients and costing a mere 50 kroner.

Roskilde’s organizers were kind enough to take us on a guided tour of some hand-picked initiatives at the festival. Here is some of what we saw on our culinary foray:

Dixie Burgers: Lean production gurus Dixie Burgers are located in the food area by the music stages. With over 315 volunteers, they produce up to 12 burgers a minute. The profits generated from sales at stalls such as these are reinvested into the association that staffs them. One of the challenges of meeting the organic demands at the festival is that most associations contract volunteers to operate their stalls. These volunteers, while incredibly hard working, tend to be less experienced than food industry professionals, which can complicate matters when it comes to ordering exact quantities of organic products.


Big A’s Diner: It may lack the Pulp Fiction-like diner seating, but Big A’s is about as good as it gets when it comes to the American culinary experience at Roskilde Festival.  This stall, located by the Avalon stage, is run by professionals from the food industry and outsourced to 140 volunteers. Fries, deep fried chicken and milk shakes are some of the items on their menu. A good place to grab a bite on Saturday, which in addition to the final day of the festival is also the major US holiday Independence Day.

Bus Bus: Located near the Orange stage, Bus Bus serves traditional Danish meals such as the revered Flæskestegssandwich (roasted pork sandwich). Their version has been heralded by several foodies as being the festival’s best. Our insider tip is to queue in the line on the left-hand side of the building (looking away from the Orange stage) as it moves way quicker than the one on the opposite side.

The Food Court: Offering a lot of different food concentrated in one place, the food court houses 18 stalls and two bars. Of these, two are Michelin-star eateries, a fact that takes Roskilde a cut above many other European festivals, The organic produce demands in this particular area of Roskilde Festival are higher than the overall demands: 60 percent of the ingredients used by each stall have to be organic.

Peter Larsen Coffee: Located in the food court area, the folks behind Peter Larsen Coffee are masters in the coffee department. One of their specialties is their cold brew coffee, pictured here. Originally from Japan, cold brew coffee contains twice as much caffeine as a can of Red Bull. And as anyone out here at Roskilde with us can attest, a heavy dose of caffeine can be just what’s needed to clear out the preceding night’s cobwebs and get you ready to face another full day eating, drinking and making merry.

Volunteers at the heart of Roskilde Festival

Roskilde Festival’s success year after year lies in much more than the music and its famed orange feeling. The event simply couldn’t go on if it weren’t for the small army of volunteers who handle projects big and small and ensure that the festival-goers have a fun, safe and memorable time.
Some 32,000 people volunteer during the week-long event, either giving their time and services directly to the Roskilde Festival or to one of the more than 200 clubs, societies and organizations that operate on the massive site.
See also: ‘Diversity is what brings me to Roskilde Festival’
The ardent volunteers partake in everything from toilet duties to manning VIP check-ins to cleaning up the sizable mess left behind after a week-long party with around 100,000 guests.  the festival is one example of the magnitude of properly-employed voluntary manpower for a good cause.
Backed by an urge to support initiatives that benefit children and the youth within humanitarian and cultural work, Roskilde Festival relies on the efforts of numerous volunteers to keep it living and breathing as an organisation dedicated to churning its profits into efforts that have a positive impact on society.
See also: The Local’s ten must-see Roskilde gigs
On a Wednesday that marked the opening day for Roskilde’s grand stages, with the likes of Pharrell Williams and Noel Gallagher making appearances at the sold-out festival, we wanted to find out more about who is making things run smoothly behind the scenes.
Besides the free ticket, what drives these volunteers to donate their time and energies to the Roskilde Festival? The Local caught up with some of the volunteers at this year’s festival. Here is what they had to say:
Nadia Muhammad, first-time volunteer from Valby. 
“Being a volunteer is hard and demanding at times, but also a lot of fun.”


Anne-Katrine Greenwik Jensen from Glostrup is volunteering for the second year in a row.

“The ticket is free and it’s nice to get a break from the festival ground.”


Ole Schou from Næstved is volunteering for the fourth time. 

“We have such a good time at the Roskilde Festival and I really like it out here in Street City.”

First-time volunteer Nadia Behzadi
“I am happy for the free ticket, I have great colleagues and it is really fun work.”

The Local’s ten must-see Roskilde gigs

The month of June has been quite a ride. With Distortion, Tinderbox, Northside, Copenhell and the general election now in the rear-view mirror, July is finally upon us, and with it comes the summer’s highlight for many, the Roskilde Festival.

Musically, Roskilde has shifted from its rock and metal roots to a more commercial programme this year with a lineup that’s heavy on the hip-hop. There is no doubt that its headline acts in the past have been grander, but there are still several exciting names to look out for and surely a few surprises lie in wait as well, as they do every year.

We’ll be covering this year’s edition, enjoying what promises to be the summer’s best weather thus far and maybe even contributing to future beer. With 169 acts catering to pretty much every musical taste, the Roskilde Festival will have something for everyone. Here are ten gigs that we are particularly looking forward to:

Noel Gallagher’s High Flying Birds
July 1 at 8:30 pm, Arena
Although Oasis’s ‘Wonderwall’ continues to be a karaoke bar staple, the Gallagher brothers’ days as a duo are now long gone. The feuds of Noel and Liam Gallagher are well-documented and both have tried their hands at solo projects. Noel Gallagher’s High Flying Birds are musically not all that different from the seminal Britpop sound that he helped cultivate in Oasis’ 90s heyday. If anything, there is a more mature, comforting appeal to it – make no mistake, if Gallagher can recapture some of his previous magic, this has the potential to be one of the best concerts at Roskilde this year.

Young Fathers
July 1 at 8:45 pm, Apollo
Young Fathers hail from Edinburgh with roots in Nigeria, Scotland and Liberia. Having won a Mercury Prize last year, Young Fathers are steadily evolving into a force to be reckoned with. Flying the flag for British experimental music, Young Fathers draw on trippy universes flanked by a blend of sharp hip-hop lyricism and epic choruses. Their sound that draws quite a few parallels with the music of trip-hop artist Tricky combined with a witty dosage of J Cole-esque influences.

The War on Drugs
July 1 at 11pm, Arena

Some music seems like it was tailor-made for a summer night in Roskilde. Such is the case with The War on Drugs, whose particular brand of American rock mixes a retro feel with indie cred and sprawling sensibilities. Their 2014 album Lost in the Dream was hyped to the heavens with very good reason and should sound even better when infused with Roskilde’s famous ‘orange feeling’.

Sarabi
July 2 at 12pm, Pavilion
Sarabi (a Swahili word for mirage) hail from the Eastlands slums of Nairobi, Kenya and are one of Roskilde’s wildcard entries this year. Socially-critical lyrics alongside well-strung instrumentation and a talismanic lead singer with an exceptional work ethic on stage are what you can look forward to when they take to the Pavilion stage at noon on Thursday.

Steve Gunn
July 2 at 4pm, Pavilion
One of the lesser-known names in this year’s lineup, Steve Gunn’s music is artistic acoustic wizardry at its best. The sorcery behind it lies in complexly-woven guitar motions drowned in a dark tunnel with strange echoes and ticks flanked by comforting vocals every now and again. Gunn is a deft guitarist and his vocal techniques have a Bon Iver-type quietness to them; music for a more tender, comforting moment at Roskilde.

Mastodon
July 2 at 8.30pm, Arena

Roskilde Festival always delivers the goods for metal fans and this year is no exception. Perhaps the biggest name among the metal acts at this year’s festival is the mighty Mastodon, who should be coming with something to prove. Their 2011 performance on the too-big and too-sparsely-crowded Orange stage was something of a letdown and didn’t come near to the powerful performance they deliver in smaller venues. Better placed at Arena this year and having taken a trippier and softer turn since their last appearance, the progressive metal veterans are sure to be a tour de force.

Disclosure
July 3 at 10.30pm, Orange
The last time Disclosure played at Roskilde, they were billed as an interesting act to look out for. After countless gigs around the world since, the two brothers from London are now established festival headliners despite having a rather slim repertoire of their own music. Following in the footsteps of the likes of Basement Jaxx and Faithless, Disclosure have taken UK garage and dance music back to the top of the charts, which in an age dominated by trashy EDM is a welcome addition of quality to the electronic music narrative.

Chelsea Wolfe
July 4 at 8.30pm, Gloria

Chelsea Wolfe is something to the antithesis of Nicki Minaj, who will be playing Orange when goth queen Wolfe takes the stage on Gloria. Her music is both incredibly dark and beautiful and will take listeners on a journey that goes throws blasts of crushing rock into quiet and eerie soundscapes. Her unique style of gothic folk has been embraced by underground rock and metal fans and she earned herself wide exposure when her track ‘Feral Love’ was used to soundtrack the season four preview for Game of Thrones.

Paul McCartney
July 4 at 10pm, Orange
At 73 years of age, Paul McCartney is surely past his prime, if you ask most. Then again, once you’ve sold over 100 million records and won 21 Grammy awards, surely things are only supposed to go downhill from there. The only former Beatle to return to Roskilde’s Orange stage, Knight McCartney has recently collaborated with the likes of Rihanna, Kanye West and Nirvana and is back to touring the world. The Orange scene will be all his come prime time on Saturday.

Africa Express
July 4 at 11pm, Arena
Africa Express is a terrific example of how cultures can be brought together through music. Featuring a varied palette of artists from Africa and Europe, their shows have seen artists like Fatboy Slim, Amadou & Mariam, Paul McCartney and Rokia Traore perform in various venues around the world. Befittingly, this year, Africa Express will be closing Roskilde on Saturday, with names such as Trentemøller, Damon Albarn, Spoek Mathambo and other unannounced acts lined up for what should be a memorable performance.